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kinran@‹ŕćE
CATEGORY:@art history / crafts
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Gold brocade. Woven of patterns with gold or silver woof on a plain ground of hiraori •˝D (plain fabric), ayaori ˆťD (twill) or shusu ㌎q (satin). Kinran patterns are made by inserting thin strips of gold-covered thread into the warp of every other row. There are plain-weave gold motifs such as Chinese foliage *karakusamon “‚‘•ś, peony scrolls, chrysanthemums, clematis, dragons, and paulownia. Swatch books of famous fabrics *meibutsugire –ź•¨—ô preserved in temples contain examples of Chinese kinran. It is called ginran ‹âćE (silver brocade) when silver thread is used. There are two kinds of gold or silver threads: hirakinshi •˝‹ŕŽ… (flat gold thread) and yorikinshi ”Q‹ŕŽ… (twisted silk thread with gold). Kinran was brought to Japan from China during the Kamakura period by Zen ‘T monks whose robes were made in Song dynasty kinran. Kinran from this period was used for imperial court dance *bugaku •‘Šy costumes. Yuan and Ming dynasty kinran and ginran were imported widely, given preeminence among meibutsugire and prized in the tea ceremony. In ROKUON NICHIROKU Ž­‰‘“ú˜^, it is written that the first Japanese kinran was woven by a Kyoto merchant in 1592. Kinran techniques were adapted in Sakai ä (Osaka) and the Nishijin źw district of Kyoto.
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