|KEY WORD : art history / crafts|
| A popular simple, bold *kosode
小袖 design from the Kamakura through the early Edo periods using differently colored
or patterned cloths for each side of the body. Originally the two pieces of fabric
were divided vertically, but later sometimes divided horizontally or combined
into a checkerboard pattern known as dan-gawari 段替 (stepwise variant).
When used for sleeves, it is called sodegawari 袖替 (half-sleeve variant).
The style probably originated in the Kamakura period as a way of reusing worn
or damaged kimono 着物 but later was associated with high fashion. In the
Momoyama and early Edo periods, katamigawari was popular for Chinese weave,
karaori 唐織, *nou 能 costumes
A similar combination of designs was adapted in such pottery styles as *oribeyaki
織部焼 and such *makie 蒔絵 styles
as koudaiji makie 高台寺蒔絵.
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